A coat of paint can work wonders for old chairs. It hides stains and stained hardwood in addition to tears and chips that you have to mend with putty. The toughest portion of selecting a seat is stripping the old finish, but if you paint, you can usually skip this step. Painting also opens the door to imagination — if a monochrome finish is not for you, you also do not have to settle for you.
To Strip or Not to Strip
Stripping is only necessary if the old finish is so shaky that it stops the new finish from sticking, and also that happens rarely. Generally, all you have to do is remove flaking finishes or bad spots with a scraper or a bit of 120-grit sandpaper. If you’re refinishing a metal chair, it’s important to neutralize any rust you discover with naval jelly or a comparable inhibitor. If you feel it’s essential to strip the finish, do it outside for great ventilation, and when you’ve scraped off the stripper and the old finish, wash the seat down with a garden hose to neutralize the substance. This will definitely raise the wood grain, but it is not difficult to sand that. Wear appropriate safety equipment, goggles, gloves and a face mask when dealing with harsh chemicals.
Filling, Sanding and Priming
If you do not strip the finish, you have to wash it with a strong detergent solution, such as 1 cup trisodium phosphate a gallon of water. This etches the finish in addition to cleaning grease and grime. You may earn a durable filling chemical that’s easy to work with by mixing 3 parts all-purpose drywall joint compound with a single part setting-type combined chemical, also known as hot mud. Spread this into wood cracks and scrapes in addition to voids left by a finish that has flaked away, and sand it flat as it dissolves. The seat is now ready for priming; utilize a high-solids wood primer for wood chairs and a typical metallic primer for steel ones.
The Base Coat
Apply spray paint in an aerosol can, as it’s simpler than painting with a brush. It does not leave brush strokes, and offers a huge variety of shades and textures. Whether you spray or brush, use the paint in three or four light coats rather than just two heavier ones, and sand between each coat with 220-grit sandpaper before applying the next. Should you use a brush, verify it’s in great condition so that you don’t have to fish loose seams out of fresh paint. Pain in long strokes that finish on the wet edge of formerly applied paint to minimize visible stroke lines.
Your chairs should seem pristine after you’ve finished the base coat, and if you’re pleased with them, your work is over. But if you want to push the shade envelope somewhat, you can use a glaze to add effects. Make the glaze using glazing chemical and pigments, or utilize a gel stain as a Scrub. Brush or wipe the glaze, then wipe it away instantly, allowing a few to remain near joints, moldings and other features. Guard the glaze with one coat of clear polyurethane varnish, which, such as paint, you can apply by brushing or spraying.